WANTED Maybe someone could loan this tool?

[Kyiv]

It's a tool #111589014000 to hold intake cam adjuster mechanism for assembly. I've inquired with mbpartsource.com (MB of Laredo, TX) and there is only 1 - in Germany, so might take 2 weeks before they get it and then there's a reshipment time to me, to Ohio.

 

[a777fan]

Sorry I can't help @Kyiv !

Just think of the street cred you'll have though... owning THE LAST ONE IN EXISTANCE!!!

 

[JC220]

Note that you don't actually require this tool unless you are experiencing faults with the camshaft adjuster itself.

For anything else I just remove the camshafts complete and do not dismantle or disturb the camshaft adjuster itself as I do not see the need and for me it is already pretty quick and easy to pull and re-install the camshaft complete on these engines VS taking that apart, requiring special tools to do so and making sure it all goes back together correctly.

Having opened many an MB engine, M102, M104, M113, M119 etc I have never once needed to take apart the camshaft adjuster and personally I prefer to leave it alone.

That's my 2 pence on the subject

 

[Kyiv]

@a777fan, thanks for your reply, mate! I've already ordered it. But my car is down right now due to a broken spring, so I figured, this'd be a good time to inspect timing chain stretch. Then I figured I'd replace camshaft magnets. Then I figured I'd do uppermost V-located chain guides. What's with the enabling power of this forum and particularly Gerry's detailed "top-end-refresh" thread!

All of the parts for the job along with springs will arrive early next week. Except the above tool, which, my understanding is imperative for the job. I was hoping to avoid paying another $500-1000 to extend my rental. I think there are several "pressure nuts" #111589014000, across all of USA, quietly crying in members' tool-drawers from NOT fulfilling their destiny

 

[Kyiv]

Note that you don't actually require this tool unless you are experiencing faults with the camshaft adjuster itself.

For anything else I just remove the camshafts complete and do not dismantle or disturb the camshaft adjuster itself as I do not see the need and for me it is already pretty quick and easy to pull and re-install the camshaft complete on these engines VS taking that apart, requiring special tools to do so and making sure it all goes back together correctly.

Having opened many an MB engine, M102, M104, M113, M119 etc I have never once needed to take apart the camshaft adjuster and personally I prefer to leave it alone.

That's my 2 pence on the subject

@JC220, Joe, I'm totally open, just not particularly properly comfortable due to lack of experience. So Gerry's detailed and illustrated how to is a big confidence-proper.

For your suggestion I would need to:

1. pin both camshafts
2. undo the cam bridges
3. remove guides between sprockets
4. remove chain tensioner, right?
5. mark chain against sprocket teeth in respective places

Did I miss anything?

 

[gsxr]

Kyiv, before unbolting the cam bearings, you would need to release chain tension and then rotate the cams (unpinned) so there was minimal pressure against any valve. Otherwise, there is risk of cam breakage. See FSM job 05-2200.

 

[Kyiv]

pin both camshafts

I'm already spewing BS

EDIT: lost a visualization briefly. camshaft do need to be pinned

 

[JC220]

@JC220, Joe, I'm totally open, just not particularly properly comfortable due to lack of experience. So Gerry's detailed and illustrated how to is a big confidence-proper.

For your suggestion I would need to:

1. pin both camshafts
2. undo the cam bridges
3. remove guides between sprockets
4. remove chain tensioner, right?
5. mark chain against sprocket teeth in respective places

Did I miss anything?

Set engine to timing marks, pin cams. Ideally lock crank too if you have the tool but not 100% required.

Remove chain tensioner first. Do NOT turn the engine at any time for any reason by any amount until the chain tensioner is back in there again.

Remove camshaft(s) complete as required to access the timing guides.

Renew the timing guides and re-install the camshafts. A note on this is to use engine assembly lube, have an accurate torque wrench and follow the FSM sequence for camshaft R&R. Victor of restore your Mercedes had videos on M119 timing of this nature - he also does not take apart the camshaft adjusters FWIW. Would be worth watching his you tube videos before you start

 

[Kyiv]

Victor of restore your Mercedes had videos on M119 timing of this nature - he also does not take apart the camshaft adjusters FWIW. Would be worth watching his you tube videos before you start

already re-watched his videos on this subject and will watch again

 

[Kyiv]

Kyiv, before unbolting the cam bearings, you would need to release chain tension and then rotate the cams (unpinned) so there was minimal pressure against any valve. Otherwise, there is risk of cam breakage. See FSM job 05-2200.

Interesting that on the drivers side camshafts must be rotated in opposite directions, but on the passenger side in the same (clockwise). Do you happen to know why?

 

[Kyiv]

@gsxr, do you happen to recall if one has an ACM fan clutch installed, does the radiator have to come out before fan/clutch can be removed?

 

[JC220]

Interesting that on the drivers side camshafts must be rotated in opposite directions, but on the passenger side in the same (clockwise). Do you happen to know why?

View attachment 148142

On the m119 the clearance between sprockets to guide is so tight you may not be able to fully adhere to the rotation above. What I did was mesh the chain where it was correct and carefully pull the cam cap bolts down very evenly and steady to draw the camshaft down home without undue stress to any part of it. You will know what I mean when you tackle the job.

Other engines such as the m104 does not have this tight interferance between chain, sprocket and guides and therefore can be rotated easily and the chain simply pulled over the teeth to suit. Not so on the m119 the gear needs meshed correctly when cams set into place because once they are in the chain will not readily be able to be pulled over the teeth.

 

[gsxr]

Interesting that on the drivers side camshafts must be rotated in opposite directions, but on the passenger side in the same (clockwise). Do you happen to know why?

The direction of rotation should not matter, as this is done with the chain lifted off the sprockets (otherwise, they won't turn). The important part is getting them turned so there is minimal pressure on the valves (most lobes pointing upward-ish). When released (when pin is removed), the cam will "jump" near the point of least resistance. Don't freak out when this happens, lol. Don't ask how I know.

@gsxr, do you happen to recall if one has an ACM fan clutch installed, does the radiator have to come out before fan/clutch can be removed?

Fan + clutch can always be removed with the radiator in place. It's just lots easier with the ACM. I can get the OE clutch out of most of my cars in <5 minutes since I've done it before and there are no seized fasteners, etc. I never pull the radiator unless I absolutely have to. Makes a tremendous mess, every time.

 

[gerryvz]

I would recommend using JC's process of removing the cam+adjuster as a full unit, rather than hassling with disassembling the adjuster. Putting that thing back together was the biggest frustration of the entire job, until I got the tool, which made a 5-minute job of it. I know people have done it without the tool, and it can probably be done with two people, but man, that tool is a HUGE time saver.

I really hurt my hands trying to hold the thing together dozens of times to re-assemble it (that spring is STRONG) before I got the tool.

I just didn't want to hassle with removing the cams. To me it was easier to just disassemble the adjuster.

 

[Kyiv]

On the m119 the clearance between sprockets to guide is so tight you may not be able to fully adhere to the rotation above. What I did was mesh the chain where it was correct and carefully pull the cam cap bolts down very evenly and steady to draw the camshaft down home without undue stress to any part of it. You will know what I mean when you tackle the job.

The important part is getting them turned so there is minimal pressure on the valves (most lobes pointing upward-ish). When released (when pin is removed), the cam will "jump" near the point of least resistance. Don't freak out when this happens, lol. Don't ask how I know.

Alright, so I'm at it. Currently working on the passenger side.

• chain and stars are marked (45 degrees, camshafts pinned)
• removed chain tensioner
• removed guide between stars
• removed pinning tool

With the above items removed, I can barely lift the chain off the stars. Using camshaft rotating wrench 119 589 00 01 00 I rotated exhaust camshaft (*leftmost, standing in front of the car, facing it) about 5-6 teeth. Towards the end of the rotation, camshaft "jumped" a bit (*as expected). After this, there is still not enough slack to remove chain of the exhaust star. I then tried to rotate intake camshaft, but that only added back tension to the chain and almost pinched my fingers.

So, tinkering while simultaneously (just in case) pooping myself from the my audacity, I lifted the chain straight up to see how much of a reasonable slack there is and the intake camshaft gave up its tension by itself, rotating about 5-6 teeth on its own

 

[gsxr]

Remove the sprocket (star) from the passenger side exhaust cam. This gives you all the slack needed. Don't drop the 3 bolts into the cavity, lol. Be careful when re-installing, the FSM is NOT clear... the bolts are standard with a single torque value. NOT the stretch-type with torque-plus-degrees-of-rotation.

 

[Kyiv]

Remove the sprocket (star) from the passenger side exhaust cam. This gives you all the slack needed. Don't drop the 3 bolts into the cavity, lol. Be careful when re-installing, the FSM is NOT clear... the bolts are standard with a single torque value. NOT the stretch-type with torque-plus-degrees-of-rotation.

It's going along, so far . I have 5 new lifters, in case I find a bad one]. A bad one will be relatively easy to compress, my understanding

 

[Kyiv]

All of the lifters on the passenger side pass the finger pressure test. The guide on this side is completely intact. It has grooves that are just deep enough to catch a fingernail. What sucks is that I just now realized that a sparkplug wire plastic router and a dipstick tube need to be out of the way for me to be able to use a pin pulling tool

Is there any, even if theoretical, merit to retorquing/tightening of head bolts?

 

[JC220]

There is no merit in trying to re torque the head bolts. M119s don't suffer any HG issues (unlike the m104) and the head bolts are stretch type so would need to be fully removed and measured and the torque is NM + 2x 90 degree angle rotations. Not just a straight NM setting.

So for all the above reasons I would leave the head bolts be!

 

[Kyiv]

@JC220 and @gsxr, do guys recall if dipstick tube has to be completely removed to gain space to use pin pulling tool?

 

[gsxr]

@JC220 and @gsxr, do guys recall if dipstick tube has to be completely removed to gain space to use pin pulling tool?

I don't think so. After unbolting enough stuff, it may move enough to allow access? Probably have to unbolt the tube and pull up / rotate. But, I can't remember exactly. Haven't done this in 10 years!

 

[gerryvz]

Rotate the dipstick tube. It should all be shown in my how to.

 

[Kyiv]

Rotate the dipstick tube. It should all be shown in my how to.

Unbolting its upper attachment and rotating the dipstick tube away + a second set of hands did the trick. Space is very tight on the lower pin, I hope I did not mangle the tube down below at its other attachment point. Passenger side rail is in "used", but rather "good" condition

@JC220, Joe what do you use to examine lifters? Do you extract them for testing or just press on them with some hard plastic thing while they are installed as a good-enough measure?